The Skin Society Natural Skin Care and Psoriasis treatments
Oily skin, usually accompanied by mild to moderate acne, is a widespread problem for
nearly all teenagers and for many adults. Studies report that 90% of teenage boys and
80% of teenage girls and 40-50% of adults aged 20-40 are affected. Excessive
skin surface oil is cosmetically unappealing, but can also trigger acne by clogging pores
and by providing a growth medium for inflammation-causing bacteria.
Sebum, which contains more than 50% triglycerides, as well as free fatty acids, wax
esters, squalene, cholesterol esters and cholesterol, is produced by sebaceous glands
located within the pilosebaceous unit (sebaceous gland(s), hair and follicle). It normally
takes 14-21 days for sebum producing cells to generate their lipids, release them and
then for these lipids to reach the skin’s surface. Normal amounts of sebum, upon
reaching the skin’s surface and mixing with skin surface lipids, may play an important
role of lubricating skin and hair and providing a protective layer on the skin’s surface.
Sebum production is stimulated by androgens, stress hormones and, as more recently
discovered, peroxisome proliferators-activated receptor (PPAR) ligands. Which
appear to play a crucial role in lipid metabolism.
While the exact mechanism of acne formation is still unknown, traditional theory centers
on excess sebum, which mixes with hyperproliferated keratinocytes to block follicles to
form microcomedones (blackheads and whiteheads). P. acnes and other bacteria
lipases break down sebum triglycerides into irritating free fatty acids, which, combined
with other sources of inflammation, can lead to more severe types of acne, including
pustules and cysts.
There are many pharmaceutical approaches to acne, many of which reduce sebum.
These include topical and oral retinoids, topical and oral antimicrobials and keratolitic
agents such as salicylic acid. However, they are commonly associated with irritation and
other negative side effects that are especially significant to the growing numbers of
adults seeking treatment. Most cosmetic approaches to sebum control rely upon
absorption of surface oils with materials such as talc and microsponges. A few cosmetic
ingredients help to inhibit the underlying causes of oily skin and acne. They include 5-
alpha reductase inhibitors, which block the conversion of testosterone into DHT and
thus block a primary trigger of sebum production, and anti-inflammatory and
antibacterial agents. In most cases of oily skin and/or acne, a multi-pronged approach to
treatment is advised.
Recent studies have linked oily skin and acne to abnormalities in lipid metabolism within
the pilosebaceous unit. In individuals with oily skin, hyperkeratosis of the follicular
epithelium is often linked to abnormalities in lipid composition in the follicle cell
membrane. These abnormalities lead to barrier dysfunction of the follicle membrane
with consequent release of digested lipids, which eventually increases the amount of
superficial lipids. A dysfunctional lipid metabolism in the sebaceous gland is responsible
for the lack of correct intra membrane lipid production, with accumulation of free fatty
acids and breakdown products.
THE SKIN SOCIETY APPROACH
It is possible that a local deficiency of certain lipid precursors is associated with this
abnormal lipid metabolism in the sebaceous glands of oily skin individuals, with a
decreased catabolism of free fatty acids and a slower anabolism and increased
breakdown of lipids important for the integrity and functionality of the follicle membrane
such as phospholipids, isoprenoids, cholesterol, ceramides, etc. Recent studies have
shown in fact that the lack of cholesterol, certain fatty acids and ceramides were
responsible for the membrane barrier disruption of the follicle cell. This abnormal lipid
metabolism in the pilosebaceous unit would lead to free fatty acid accumulation and to a
non functional follicle membrane, resulting in membrane rupture, release of free fatty
acids and overall superficial sebum increase.
One study links oily skin and acne to a deficiency of Coenzyme A (CoA), which the
body uses in two very important metabolic pathways: the synthesis of sex hormones and
in fatty acid metabolism. CoA carries acyl groups used to lengthen and degrade long
chain fatty acids along the metabolic pathway. When forced by shortage to choose
between the two uses of CoA, the body will choose the most important process,
production of sex hormones. Without enough CoA to properly metabolize fatty acids,
lipids accumulate in the sebaceous glands, sebum increases and acne forms. Oily skin,
acne and pore size were significantly improved by internal and external administration of
pantothenic acid, the only precursor of CoA not produced within the body.
Based on these studies associating deficient lipid metabolism with excess sebum and
acne, The Skin Society development made possible to treat oily skin with a cosmetic blend of lipid precursors (inparticular of the isoprenoids and sterols synthesis) which act as bioactivators on the skin, helping to normalize lipid metabolism.
Michel A. Hegi Ph.D.
http://www.theskinsociety.com/Acne/Acne.html
http://www.theskinsociety.com/Breast/Breast-augmentation.html
http://www.theskinsociety.com/Cellulite/Cellulite.html
http://www.theskinsociety.com/
