First Clean your kitchen zinc real good…..Just kidding
But in the good old days it might just had started this way. Today with modern technology it has became more difficult. But you can still do it with normal kitchen utensils just make sure they are very clean. Every cosmetic lab has one day or another bought stainless steel pots from a restaurant supply. They are made by the same company   than you can buy in lab supplies store, just less expensive.
Is basically 3 different ways to make a Skin Care product: Gel, Emulsion and fat mixing.
I will start with the easier one: Fat mixing, very easy to make and very simple, all you have to do is to choose oil and fat material of different viscosity and mix them together until you get the wanted consistency.
The best example is of this can of product is the well known Eucerin cream. This product is made of 70% Petrolatum 20% Lanolin and 5% Cholesterol. This formulation is over a century old and is why is made this way.
Lanolin and Cholesterol are the actives ingredients and are essentially the same product. Cholesterol is the active ingredient in lanolin and is extracted from lanolin, when Eucerin was made the only form of lanolin available was very smelly, so to minimize the smell and increase the active ingredient content the manufacturer added cholesterol. Petrolatum is the carrier for the active ingredient. You can buy petrolatum in a very extensive number of viscosities, from a water like to a very heavy grease, so it is easy to formulate product of many different viscosity from hard to very fluid. As a philosophy, I myself do not believe that petrolatum is good for your skin, and  I do not use animal by product either, which are mainly waste material from other industries. Lanolin is the only exception. Lanolin is a byproduct of the wool industry, is removed from the wool in the processing of the fiber and it is not destructive of the sheep. You can make a similar product by using cocoa butter and olive oil, starting by heating cocoa butter and adding olive oil very slowly and cooling it down to check the viscosity. You can redo this process until the viscosity is what you want, when it is… Voila! you have made your first skin care product. At the end you can also ad your favorite fragrance and be as creative as you want, you can use one solid one liquid, five solids 10 liquids whatever suit your creative mood. Products have been made with everything from lard (pig fat) to caviar. One thing I just want you to know and not to fail victim of slick advertising campaign: The cosmetic industry has been the dump site for the waste material of many other industries. For example to maximize their profit the fur industry after removing their skins cook up the mink cadavers skim up the fat and sell it to you as mink oil! So does the emus, broken sturgeons eggs cannot be sold either so they sell caviar extract. Most animal by product are waste from other industries. Furthermore no matter what is said you can get better ingredients for vegetable sources!
Now lets talk about emulsions: Those are the most difficult, you need a well balance of fat materials, water and water based material such as extract and an emulsifiers. Emulsion cream in skin care are varying between 40% to 90% water 10% to 60% fatty material and 5% to 15% emulsifier. The best known emulsifier is a mixture of 60% Stearic acid and 40% Cetearyl alcohol and use 6% to 12% of this mixture in your oil phase.(You can buy  emulsifying wax from many vendor on eBay ) An emulsion can have a minimum of two phases to 5 or more. We will keep it simple and demonstrate a three phase emulsion. First gather all your fatty material including the emulsifier and heat them to 75 degree Celsius, this is your oil phase, next heat water and water soluble materials to the same temperature of 75 degree Celsius, this is your water phase. (Do not heat the extract at this time, the active ingredients in botanical extracts do not resist to high temperature). When both at 75 degree Celsius mixed them together, at this time you will ad at least 1% to 6%  of Triethanolamine (TEA) to stabilize the emulsion and raise the pH. Keep mixing until the all thing cool down to  40 degree Celsius. At this point you can add the heat sensitive products, and this is your third phase. If you add preservative  be careful usually preservative are heat sensitive too. Bravo…you just made your first skin care emulsion!
Now Gel: Gel are very interesting, all you need is a gelling agent Methyl Cellulose is a good one and also Carbomer better known as Carbopol, but you can choose over 100 suppliers.(You can buy  Gelling material from many vendor on eBay ) All you have to do is dissolve 0.5% to 1% of gelling agent in water, when completely dissolved you ad your water soluble extract and raise the ph with (TEA) triethanolamine et voila you have just made your first skin care gel!
If you like to cook you will love to make your own skin care products
Mike Hegi PhD.

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If there is an area where the false claims are going rampant in the skin care product market is the one concerning the treatment of cellulite.

Many marketers are making false claims trying to sell cellulite products which clearly contained no cellulite fighting ingredients. In some marketers mind if the ingredients have enough publicity on their own as wrinkle cream ingredients, why can we put few of those ingredients together and sell them as cellulite cream? It probably makes very good sense in a marketing stand point, but very few in a scientific one. (It’s like swallowing suppositories). You wouldn’t do that; would you? Cellulite is not wrinkle, so don’t put your expensive face cream on your butt! Collagen, Retinol, AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) such as Lactic acid, Glycolic acid and Salicylic acid do not work in decreasing the appearance of cellulite. But if the product is greasy enough, and it takes a long time to penetrate you might have the collateral benefit of the massage, but certainly none from the cream! To remove dead skin cell from your Cellulite affected area use a brush or a loofah sponge!

What causes cellulite at the first place and why does it seem to get worse over time?

It has been the bane of every woman’s existence. Many women have it in varying degrees, and unfortunately it appears to get worse with age. Cellulite is not just a problem affecting obese or overweight women. Average size and even thin women suffer from cellulite as well. It has been surveyed that 90% of all women have cellulite somewhere on their bodies.

This leaves only a small percentage of women who are actually cellulite free. (They are either lucky or blessed). How can you become part of that elite cellulite-free 10%?

What causes cellulite and why does it seem to get worse once it appears?
Occurrence of cellulite is created by a genetic disposition coupled with hormonal imbalances. Cellulite is hereditary, so much so that the indications of who will get it, and to what degree, are present almost from birth, In fact, skin biopsies taken from infants are highly predictive of whether cellulite will develop later in life, based on the number of septa bands found in the skin.
The thighs, buttocks and the abdomen are the most common areas for a woman to develop cellulite. Although it is often mistaken for obesity, cellulite is not actually obesity related because it can also take place in thin lean women.

Underneath the dermis and epidermis are three specific layers of fat. Cellulite tends to develop in the subcutaneous fat layers. This layer of fat is unique in its structure compared to the other layers because its fatty parts are structured into specific chambers by strands of linked tissue around it. In men, these chambers are organized into small slanting units. These store smaller fat quantities and are not likely to form cellulite.

. The areas which are affected by cellulite are usually dry and damaged therefore needing additional moisture, increased blood supply and protection. The appearance of cellulite can be reduced temporarily by increasing moisture to the affected area. It needs to be remembered cellulite needs to be treated from the inside as well as the outside. High quality cellulite product with a delivery system that facilitates the product to enter the cells is very important to achieve a penetration. Cellulite creams work by pulling pull fluids out of the spaces between cells and induce lipolysis: Fat burning in the layer just below the skin’s surface. A good cellulite creams reduces fat cells in skin with visible results in a few weeks. To sum it up: Anti Cellulite products should reduce the appearance of cellulite; have the proper delivery of actives material, contain high quality ingredients; that have skin tightening properties; Anti Cellulite creams should be targeted to a specific area and are best applied after a hot bath/shower or vigorous exercise, when the skin is still warm.

Now about the ingredients you should look for in a superior Anti Cellulite product:

The cream or carrier should be in a fat free base: not any butter cocoa or Shea, no oil of any can.

And the active ingredients been encapsulated into liposomes

Creams which contain antioxidants and anti-inflammatory are more effective when treating cellulite as they stimulate blood flow.

It should have enough active ingredients to be effective. High price do not equate to high quality, but cheap is cheap! Make sure you can return the stuff for a full refund if it does not work within a few weeks!

Unfortunately you will never know how many and how much active ingredients there is in a product! I will talk about that in a future article that is coming soon. Keep watching!

Now back to the list:

L-Carnitine: an amino-acid that increase the cells respiratory process.

Caffeine: a lipolysis promoting agent

Coenzyme A (CoA) is another lipolysis promoting agent witch is usually from biotechnology

Other botanicals who promote lipolysis includes: Bladderwack, Spearmint Oil, Peppermint Oil, Eucalyptus Oil, Horse Chestnut, Green Tea, Horsetail, Fucus Vesicolosus, Hedera Helix and Menthol.

Mike A. Hegi, PhD.

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BHA work better on Acne because is Oil Soluble!

Glycolic acid is perhaps the best-known of a group of chemicals called fruit acids or alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA). It is derived from sugar cane, so it can be considered a natural product. Citric acid from oranges and other citrus fruits and lactic acid from Milk also fall under the same classification as Alpha glycolic acid.

Glycolic acid works as an exfoliating agent because of its high acidity but easy solubility. When placed on the skin as part of an exfoliating cream or gel, glycolic acid goes under the damaged upper layers of skin and destroys the ‘glue’ which holds dead skin to the surface.

Glycolic acid as a sloughing effect on the skin; (removal of dead cells) by accelerating the normal rate of sloughing it help the regeneration of your skin by growing new cells faster.

Studies of percentages of Glycolic acid usage in commercial, over the counter cream and lotion products found that: 5% to be a good average. The reason behind this is as follow: As you increase the acid content the ph goes down. Low ph burn your skin so to raise the ph to an acceptable level you have to ad Calcium hydroxide and it defeat the purpose of the high content of acid.

Alpha or Beta the Difference between Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids
There is only one beta hydroxy acid: salicylic acid. The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads. Alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem. In theory it penetrates the skin faster.

Beta vs. Alpha Hydroxy acids

Studies conducted to test the efficacy of Alpha versus Beta glycolic acid on normal skin are inconclusive at best. Both acids seem to be equally effective in their exfoliating power; however the effect from Salicylic acid showed more sustained effectiveness and less adverse effect than AHA. Other studies found that the ph at which Glycolic acids are the most effective is below ph of 4.  But it may give you a burning sensation when you apply it on your skin. In medical offices up to 80% Glycolic acid and at much lower ph. have been used for peel but for the general use, I will suggest around 5% in cream and lotion and 10% in do it yourself peels. But for peels be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions conscientiously! Too long of an exposure may give you temporary redness.  For more anti Aging Products look at: http://www.theskinsociety.com

Michel A. Hegi PhD.

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Industry suppliers agree that consumers have been the major push behind the green trend due to such factors as health warnings, environmental concerns and organic attitudes. Until recently, little research had been done on herbals as topical solutions. Yet the market has increased by leaps and bounds in the past five years. Growth within the natural personal care products industry is nearly three times the rate of the personal care market, according to industry experts. “Historically, there has not been much research in botanical, but market growth is phenomenal,” said Dr Hegi from The Skin Society “Personal care products generally experience a growth rate of 10% per year. Natural personal care products, however, are expected to grow 25% a year for the next five years.”

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Due to the recent foot-and-mouth disease outbreak in Europe, consumers are moving away from certain meats and topical products that could contain remnants of animal-based ingredients, especially the feared Mad Cow disease, or bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE). And with the increased activity of animal right activists, this fear is widespread.

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“A rise in naturals is related to the Mad Cow disease scare, where tallow is being replaced with vegetable oils in skin care products,” said Dr Hegi. “Most countries require a purity code—no bovine products. And people are becoming more aware of what they are using in their personal care products.”

The disease scares have only strengthened a prevailing trend across the world toward alternative medicines and products promoting a healthier, more spiritual lifestyle.

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“Consumer demand, the downturn of pharmaceuticals and the popularity of allopathic alternatives that originate from a natural source are driving the market,” observed Dr Hegi “Consumers are more educated and aware of the potency of natural materials and products. There is a desire on both part, manufacturer and consumer, for all-natural solutions to meet this demand.”

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Health Canada, the European Union, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the National Institute of Health in the U.S. are studying the medicinal possibilities of extracts to determine if they have anti-cancer or anti-inflammatory effects.

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“The draw to the natural industries has a lot to do with advertised research and studies,” said Dr Hegi “With diseases such as cancer, people are told that if they avoid certain things, it’ll help.”

Dr Paul Wolf, MD.

Women need to understand how to treat the skin gently and effectively, we’re contending with the ozone layer, the environment and the natural aging process. If a woman cleanses properly, moisturizes and exfoliates gently, she can have healthier skin for a long time to come.

Cocoa Butter’s Competition
Among the many new trends, cocoa butter remains a staple in ethnic skin care, as well as across the board. Cocoa butter has long been touted for its moisturizing, protective and anti-stretch mark qualities.

Shea butter imparts similar benefits as cocoa butter, and its easy absorption into the skin makes it applicable for both face and body.

Shea butter absorbs easily into the skin, has good emolliency and helps calm irritated skin,
Shea butter has been used since written history to heal a variety of skin ailments
Shea can help moisturize areas of the body that tend to look ashy due to dryness. When skin is dry and there are dead skin cells on the surface, the skin not only feels dry, but looks it. Any skin will react this way, but generally, the dryness shows up more on darker-toned skin.

The Shea nut has been used for centuries, according to Dr Hegi from The Skin Society. “The Shea tree is also called the “tree of life” The reason for this is that the butter has historically been used for a number of purposes. In today’s formulations, it makes for a lasting, lightweight, non-watery product that is extremely beneficial to the skin.”

Utilizing Shea butter as a multi-purpose ingredient is a definite trend. More and more companies are researching the benefits of this ingredient. It’s a more natural but extremely effective way to address common skin concerns. Shea butter products are going to be around for a long, long time.

M.A. Hegi PhD.

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Mother Nature, by design engineered your skin to efficiently protect your internal organs from the other natures designed elements and their possible invasion.

This is why most natural ingredients do not works on your skin before being chemically manipulated by human.

Think about it… You drink herbal tea after infusing it in hot water; you do not eat freshly cut Chamomile flower or Ginseng roots.

Even after the process of drying the herbs grinding, infusing and drinking them, a very complicated chemical transformation occurs in your very own body.

First the tea enter your stomach where is dumped in a pool of highly corrosive hydrochloric acid which dilute every molecule of the ingested material. After this process millions of very chemically selective enzymes start working at separating and transforming every minute part of this acidic material into nutrients small enough to pass the final filtration that will occurs in your intestinal track which will separate the good and made it available to each individual part of your body before discarding the useless portion.

As human we are nothing more than a walking thinking and feeling chemical plant!

As a chemist I try to replicate the chemical process that occurs naturally in your body, using glass and steel equipment to extract the essential molecules from natural ingredient and make them available to you by penetrating the deeper layers of your skin.

They are losing their original names! In order for scientist to recognize every individual ingredients they will lose their original name given at birth and be identified by the chemical process they were submitted to during their transformation, or just a new name. (Like in marriage: The wife assume the name of her husband)

To simplify what I am trying to illustrate in those few words is that: When you rub rosehip or lemon on your skin nothing much will happen. But if I extract the vitamin C out of this very same lemon; and you rub vitamin C on your skin instead of lemon it will rehydrate your collagen. Vitamin C is not lemon anymore but it originally was.

This is the miracle of chemistry.

Michel A. Hegi, PhD.

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Research Director for The Skin Society

The water content of the skin varies but for the epidermis it is approximately 80%, this is the same water content as in other cells. The very surface of the skin, the stratum corneum, is made up of dead skin cells and this layer is much drier, with the water content varying between 10-30%.

The stratum corneum, when it is dry, will tend to lose its luster and produce what we know as dry skin. In normal circumstances there will be movement of water from the dermis up through the more superficial layers of the skin, the water then in turn will evaporate. Skin that has low water content will dry and fissure.
Moisturizers are designed to reduce water loss from the epidermis. These do not reverse sun damage but they do prevent further dryness. There is a temporary feeling of smoothness when moisturizers are used. The skin may swell slightly and cause some loss of fine wrinkles. The pores may appear to be smaller because of this swelling. Moisturizing for those with oily skin will consist of sunscreen and oil free product, stay away from petrolatum! Not every skin will be dry; there is the occlusive layer that waterproofs the skin. This is called the stratum corneum. Sebum that is secreted from the oil glands will also have a moisturizing effect on the skin. Moisturizers are essentially a combination of occlusive and humectants. There are a number of different skin types that require different skin care.

Skin Moisturizers for Different Skin Types

Oily Skin: The moisturizers for people with oily skin should be non-comedogenic or oil-free.
Stay away from Petrolatum and mineral oil!

Dry Skin: Dry skin is more commonly seen in lighter colored individuals. Moisturizing should be applied to the skin after washing. Small amounts of moisturizer should be applied, and it is best to have multiple applications rather than using an excessive amount at one time. For aging skin an Anti-Wrinkle cream at night and a moisturizer with sunscreen for the day would be a good regimen. There is a small percentage of people who actually have dry skin on their face, these people will be dry on the cheeks and jaw line. If a person is scaly in the center of the face central forehead, around the nose, and on the central chin, this may be seborrheic dermatitis. The use of a heavy moisturizer in people who have central facial dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis) could lead to acne. Again, stay away from Petrolatum and mineral oil!

Normal – Combination Skin: Most people have oily skin on the forehead, nose, and chin (called the T-zone), and dryer skin on the cheeks and neck. The recommended moisturizer will be a non-comedogenic moisturizer which contains a minimum SPF of 15 in it for daily use. Sunscreens will help the prevention of skin cancer and photoaging.

Moisturizing of the Hands:  Moisturizers that are best used for the hands: contains Silicone, Lanolin and coco butter. Silicone is a water repellent. It also will not allow the normal fats of the surface of the skin to be washed away. These products protect the skin even after washing the hands.

Moisturizers for Body Skin: Because there are very few sebaceous (oil) glands on the arms and legs, moisturizers are very important. Winter, dry climates, and windy climates are very hard on the skin of the body. Many body lotions incorporate sunscreens for a daily routine. This is very important for sun exposed skin, and again the prevention of skin cancer and photoaging.

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Senior scientist for The Skin Society

The essence of a successful cosmetic product lies in the cosmetic performance it delivers to the consumer’s skin. The old patent from the Geneva Switzerland based The Skin Society:  of Phytoferments http://www.theskinsociety.com have been reformulated to better work with the newest developments in skin care science. To better penetrate the deepest part of the skin we have entrapped those already very active ingredients into liposomes.

The sensual experience depends on various factors like perfume, texture, skin feel of oil components and emulsifiers or the performance of active ingredients. And there are ingredients that can still improve products that already are close to perfect. Our fermentation of botanical range of active ingredients has been designed to improve and refine the skin feel in skin care products. The basic ingredient of these active raw materials is Amylose, which is a natural polymer from starch. Thus the name Phytoferments explains the nature of this class of compounds. Produced on the basis of plants and renewable materials, chemically modified to obtain high performance, Phytoferments is an ideal compromise between natural sourcing and chemical engineering for the improvement of the cosmetic performance.

Skin conditioning anti wrinkle, skin whitening, Anti aging and skin treatments such as cellulite and body sculpting have been the main target in the development of Phytoferments products. The use of different molecular sizes of amylose and the chemical modification to form this class of active materials guarantees a high flexibility in designing valuable skin care active material. Various compounds are created by this variation and we have developed perfect plant extract for different types of skin. A combination of different Phytoferments grades or the addition of other plant material opens new possibilities for specialized skin care for every type of skin condition. The balance between substantivity and removability is one key to optimization of skin care products. We have obtained it by combining different types of Phytoferments. According to their size and chemical modification they target different sites skin problems. Skin conditioning is the application that has been targeted with our Phytoferments. The assessment of several sample products showed us that the skin feel of cosmetics and toiletries is improved by addition of certain Phytoferments types. Smooth and silky skin is the result of formulations with starch based Phytoferments plant extract. This effect can be used in rinse off products such as cleansers for a rich and velvety after feel, as well as in leave on products, where a luxurious skin feel is achieved. Ease of application is something hardly found in starch based active ingredients. Proven efficacy is the ground for a successful application. Therefore we have extensive test protocols for our raw materials. We incorporate the different types in various state of the art formulations to test the performance with our In-house facilities. UV-resistance and other tests are done to carefully evaluate the performance of our Phytoferments materials in our products. Natural materials are the basis for Phytoferments, renewable sources like potatoes and tapioca provide the starch used for the production. The raw starch is refined and chemically modified to yield cosmetic ingredients with the desired functionalities.

Mike Hegi, PhD.

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in which the skin can become more youthful or younger is by intensifying skin renewal.

Skin renewal is a continuous process.

The intensity of regeneration of the cells their quantity and their structure govern the

elasticity, plasticity, wrinkling and the condition of the skin. In a young skin, this natural

regeneration process is so intensive that the entire epidermis is renewed,

rejuvenated, within 22 to 28 days.

Age and environmental effects reduce the renewal of skin cells as a result of a decrease

in metabolic activity. The number of skin cells decreases and the cells themselves

become increasingly inelastic, smaller and thinner; which is why the skin also becomes

thinner, more wrinkled, tired-looking and rough.

Modern scientific cosmetic care Endeavour’s is to delay the changes and substance

displacements occurring in the skin due to age and environmental effects; replenish or

compensate the missing substances; and actively preserve the healthy condition of the

skin.

The specific cosmetic application of specific organic agents makes it possible to

maintain the natural balance of the skin metabolism and its activity.

Concept of The Skin Society products

In nature and living things, substances are found which can be described as versatile,

eg. multiple-effect, bioactivators. These bioactivators organize or influence the normal

development of vital processes.

The development of the biological complex in The Skin Society Anti Wrinkle Serum has made it possible to provide such bioactivators in optimized proportions for the formulation of modern cosmetic care products with cell-regenerating properties.

The objective of this novel product, The Skin Society Anti Wrinkle Serum is to provide the

User with a polypotent agent complex making it possible a high-quality skin care

products, which on the one hand delay skin ageing in a natural way through improved

regeneration, and on the other hand simultaneously regulate or normalise the skin’s

moisture and sebaceous matter balance and hence smooth out wrinkles.

It has been possible to achieve this extremely ambitious aim with the optimised

combination contained in the agent complex The Skin Society Anti Wrinkle Serum, consisting of farnesol, a farnesol derivate and a panthenol derivate.

Farnesol and farnesol derivates are natural substances of high biological potency which

are also found in this form as bioactivators in human skin. These components are

therefore absorbed by the skin and can thus develop their effect to the full.

Even the butterfly, for example, owes its beauty to such bioactivators. These natural

substances determine, control and regulate the development of a butterfly from birth

until its glorious colors have fully developed .

Farnesol and farnesol derivates are widespread in the plant world. They have been

detected in countless flower oils and other ethereal oils. For example, in lime

blossom oil, acacia blossom oil, rose oil, in the flower oils from the lily of the valley, lilac,

oranges etc., in musk seed oil, sandalwood oil and so on.

Substances of this type have also been detected in champagne. The farnesol content

is an important quality factor in the bouquet of a champagne.

Dr. Michel A. Hegi, Ph.D.

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