Astaxanthin comes from the microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis found in abundance in arctic marine environments. A natural carotenoid, it is a powerful antioxidant and is often referred to as “red gold from the sea.” It provides wrinkle reduction by internal supplementation and reduces hyper-pigmentation. The material also has very good anti-inflammatory properties. http://www.theskinsociety.com/wrinkle.html

Gorgonian Extract GC8 is a natural marine extract derived from Pseudo-pterogorgia elisabethae (Sea Whip). This anti-inflammatory ingredient is safe, effective and environmentally friendly. The anti-inflammatory properties of pseudopterosins are well documented. This ingredient (INCI: Caprylic/capric triglyceride and Sea Whip extract), is ideal for use in sun care products, aftershaves and skin care treatments.

Pseudopterosin, Sea Whip’s active component, is currently under review as a new drug for treating burns, contact dermatitis, psoriasis and arthritis.

Kimarine, derived from edible seaweed, has been clinically proven to lighten skin and provide protection from reactive oxygen species.

Helionori is a marine active ingredient providing protection against UVA irradiation, due to the presence of special compounds called mycosporine-like amino acid. http://www.theskinsociety.com/sunscreens.html
Actiseane, developed from brown seaweeds, counters several factors that contribute to skin aging including slower cellular turnover assisting in wound healing and inflammation soothing. Several well-known skin care companies use seaweed and seawater as their products “magic” ingredient.

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Plankton Total Extract consists of organisms which float freely and involuntarily in open water. In cosmetics, the glucides provided by the phytoplankton fraction make it useful  in moisturizing products such as body milks, hand creams and bath gels. The large amount of oligo elements and iodine, due to their attributed lipolitic action, make it suitable in cellulite and slimmimg formulations. The oligo elements and free amino acids are also fundamental in tissue restructuring and may be incorporated into anti-aging products. Aldavine is a highly-potent cosmetic active ingredient derived from two different algae leading to the association of two sulphated algal polysaccharides. Three biochemical mediators are upregulated in the skin upon aging, exposure to UV and environmental insults and are associated with microcapillary dilation and hyper-permeability. It is suggested for anti-aging, acne, sensitive skin and after-sun care products. It improves skin barrier function. The VEGF pathway is the most innovative feature of this new material. Brown algae which is rich in vitamins and minerals, stimulates cellular growth. It rejuvenates cells at the molecular level. Demonstrated by several clinical studies,

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Most enzymes, be they of plant, animal or bacterial origin, are inactive or have low potency level at room temperature. Marine enzymes, on the other hand, are at their peak potency level at skin temperature. Cold-adapted marine enzymes are derived from cod fish. These enzymes exfoliate, reduce inflammation, heal wounds and scars, and improve acne and other skin conditions. The self-preserving nature of certain marine enzymes allow for preservative-free cosmetic compositions. These aqueous marine enzyme formulas are pure and safe; natural and effective skin care therapies.

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Several recent technological advances are providing unique opportunities for formulators to select specific marine ingredients for their anti-aging products. One of these, squalene, is sourced from shark liver oil. It smoothes and softens the skin texture. It makes skin look more radiant and supple while hydrating and soothing dry, irritated skin. It helps protect the skin from free radical damage.

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Marine Plant Extract is developed by extracting fluid from the cellular mass of various marine organisms. It contains polysaccharides, vitamins and essential sea minerals. It is made from a combination of seaweeds specifically red algae and marine animals. It also contains small quantities of water soluble B, A and C vitamins, niacinamide and pantothenic acid in its co-factor form. It is suggested for use in spa products, moisturizers, serums and body washes.     http://www.theskinsociety.com/face_lift.html

Apt material is bio-engineered from a strain of the red marine algae. Its remarkable bio-activity is derived from its molecular weight peptide fraction of between 500 to 5,000 daltons. Its polypeptide fraction synergizes well with the polysaccharides to impart moisturization, soothing and aesthetic skin benefits. In cell culture studies, it stimulated fibroblast proliferation, triggering cellular synthesis. Both in-vitro and in-vivo studies confirmed its cosmetic benefits such as reducing wrinkles, improving short and long term moisturization, and improving and soothing irritated skin.

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Homeostatine is an active complex of  and Andean tree and a marine seaweed. It is designed to prevent and reduce wrinkles by increasing the production of dermal collagen and other extracellular matrix components in fibroblasts, by inhibiting the synthesis of pro-inflammatory mediators. This natural cosmetic ingredient combines the activity of both of its components to produce a remarkable anti-wrinkle effect.

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Seawater, mud and salt are all rich sources of minerals and have healing and soothing benefits. The Dead Sea is a unique source for these ingredients due to its dense concentration of minerals, including potassium, magnesium, sodium, calcium and chloride. Muds have high absorption capacity due to its colloidal size particles. But Dead Sea mud is different from other muds as it is not created by decomposing seaweeds or clays. Nor does it have any known side effects. Due to its high aluminum silicate content, Dead Sea mud provides relief from eczema and is often incorporated into face masks, body masks and bath.  http://www.theskinsociety.com/treatments.html

Mud masks help refresh and pamper skin as well as promote cell rejuvenation. They remove dead skin cells and excess oil, while their deep cleansing action refreshes and revives the skin. The mud is usually applied to the skin without causing sensitization or irritation. Sea water and algae contain magnesium, strontium and algal polysaccharides fucoidan laminara which have antibacterial and antiviral properties. These cumulatively provide relief to psoriatic skin.

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Marine-derived ingredients, including seaweed, algae and sea salts, often have excellent anti-irritant, antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-aging properties, which makes them integral components of products for the fast-growing spa industry. Seaweeds are extremely hardy, adapting to changes in temperature and intense exposure to UV radiation. As a result, they thrive even as they are immersed in water and exposed to air. There are more than 3000 types of seaweed and each has unique properties. Seaweed extracts are loaded with amino acids, such as alanine, glycine and proline, to stimulate collagen synthesis and inhibit enzymes that destroy collagen and elastin.

Seaweeds are broadly divided in three classes based on their color—brown, red and green. Many types of seaweeds are known by their Japanese names such as wakame, hijiki and kombu. Twelve seaweeds are widely used in spas: arame, bladderwrack, dulse, hijiki, irish moss, kelps, kombu, nori, sea lettuce, sea palm and wakame. The traditional Japanese bath includes strips of kombu or bladderwrack to dissipate excess fat deposits and soften the skin. With regular use, it reportedly improves the skin barrier and slows the aging process. Seaweeds have almost no calories, are extremely low in fat and are a great source of high quality protein and calcium.

Seaweeds are available in a variety of forms: whole, powder, extract, liquid and gel. They have a predominant amount of iodine, protein and minerals—all of them good for the skin. Laminaria or green algae is especially rich in iodine and reportedly stimulates cell oxygen content. Fucus or brown algae is rich in antioxidants and has a detoxifying benefit to the body. Spirulina is a single-cell algae that is loaded with protein and antioxidants. Rich in calcium and magnesium, white algae is an anti-inflammatory and boosts blood circulation.

Seaweeds contain rare minerals, soluble salts and other skin beneficial ingredients, too. Concentrated seaweed extracts yield superior cosmetic properties thanks to key components such as amino acids, polysaccharide and oligo elements which must be carefully preserved during processing. Both seaweeds and seawater are said to firm the skin. Seawater and human blood plasma reportedly have identical composition. No wonder why the French have practiced La Thalasso Therapie or seawater therapy for a long time.

Other ingredients, such as sea salts, sea mud and coral powder are used in wraps, creams, lotions and scrubs. Their active constituents are said to oxygenate and promote healthy skin.

For a good Anti Cellulite product with algae extract visit:http://www.theskinsociety.com/cellulite.html

Mike A. Hegi PhD.

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Some dermatologists advise their patients to restrict daily skin care regimens to three or four products. Still, most people use too many products at once. The skin picks up environmental debris during the day, which gets covered by occlusive creams. The end result is clogged pores that, in time, get larger and lead to skin inflammation, irritation, whiteheads and blackheads. The build-up of dead surface cells makes skin look dull, dry and flaky, causing it to reflect light poorly. This effect makes skin appear lifeless.

Exfoliating skin care products breakdown and eliminate keratinized cells and restore a healthy translucent glow to the skin. Achieving this glow often requires a thorough scrubbing with a loofah. Exfoliation should be attempted when there are visible changes in skin texture. This happens because the cell turnover slows down over time and using products with exfoliants provide beneficial results. Body exfoliation has several major health benefits—it stimulates blood flow, increases circulation and sloughs off dead skin cells. To keep skin looking good, exfoliate at least once a week with physical scrubs or chemical washes. Good exfoliation brightens and smoothes skin surface, shrinks pores and prevents breakouts and stimulates replacement of these dead cells with newer cells. There are two broad classes of exfoliants, physical and chemical. Here are short reviews of all these methods.

Physical & Chemical Exfoliants

Natural exfoliants have been around for centuries. Exfoliating ingredients range from very abrasive, potentially irritating ingredients such as apricot or walnut kernel and pumice, to gentle exfoliants like jojoba beads, nylon puffs, coarse bath salts and synthetic microbeads. They all are usually fine granular particles that gently scratch the skin surface to remove dead cells. It is important to use them with caution. They should not be rubbed too vigorously on delicate areas such as under eyes. They should be used very carefully on severe acne. For the skin areas with hardened calluses such as elbows, knees or feet, a vigorous use of pumice stone accomplishes satisfactory results. There are many physical exfoliants available on the market. The sand-like granules should be kept away from the eyes, because they could easily scrape the cornea. Sometimes “natural” exfoliants can cause severe irritations or allergies. Most common allergic contact dermatitis results from skin contact with certain botanicals that release oleoresin and cause red, swollen, blistering itchy skin inflammation and irritation. If this happens, prompt relief is accomplished if the affected area is immediately washed with water. These ingredients are available as cleansing grains, gentle abrasive sponges, waxy creams, loofahs and brushes. Clay exfoliants consist of bentonite, hectorite and kaolin. They have a suctioning effect on clogged pores to dislodge compacted dead cells and tighten the appearance of pores. Often these are used for acne blemishes.

Chemical exfoliants may be broadly divided into the following five categories: AHA, BHA, enzymes, acne actives and retinoids. Here’s a closer look at each of them.
AHAs, including citric, glycolic, malic, tartaric and lactic acids, increase skin cell turnover by dissolving protein bonds between cells. AHAs are water soluble and are less effective in entering the oil glands because they cannot get through the sebum content of the pores. As a result, the dead skin sloughs off, revealing fresh soft skin underneath. Acids only penetrate the epidermis or the outermost layer of the skin. The chemical difference between alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids is the location of the hydroxy group on the carbon chain of the acid. Alpha indicates that the group is on the first carbon atom, whereas beta means that the group is on the second carbon atom. The most critical efficacy parameters are use of correct isomer, concentration and pH.     Do not apply product on the damaged skin. It could provoke burning or itching. Avoid exposure to sun. Use a sun protection cream. Avoid use in pregnant women. These products usually may cause transitory mild itching, burning or blushing. If such symptoms persist, it is advisable to discontinue use. It is advised, however, not to overdo this by using many different AHA products a day. Always wear broad spectrum sunscreen, since AHAs thin out the top layer of the skin. For callus skin and elbows, use a leave-on product like a cream with good exfoliating ingredient glycolic acid.

BHAs are a group of organic acids, including salicylic acid, used in the skin care products for their exfoliating and antibacterial properties. They are gentler than AHAs and are oil soluble. This oil solubility permits them to mix with sebum and exfoliate skin cell residue. This is the reason why BHAs are effective in the treatment of blackheads and blemishes.

Acne actives remove dead cells. Benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and sulfur resorcinol are strong exfoliants found in OTC acne products and cleansers, rinsable scrubs, soaps, creams and lotions. Their concentration is governed by the acne monograph, and work best when left on the skin for a while before rinsing.

Enzyme Power

Enzymes include papain (derived from papaya), bromelain (derived from pineapple) and pancreatin (a pancreatic enzyme derived from pork or beef processing). All of them dissolve protein in the dead cells. These enzymes are called proteolytic because they dissolve protein to exfoliate and improve skin. Enzyme based products are available as peels or powders which are reconstituted with water prior to use. Kinerase, a plant growth factor (N6-furfuryladenine), has cell turnover efficacy comparable to retinoids on the skin. It plumps plant leaves by causing the surface layer to retain water. In skin care products, it enhances cell turnover. It is available as formulated into products containing AHA and retinol. It is available in prescription and OTC strengths.

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives also known as tretinoins. They exfoliate skin and stimulate collagen production, resulting in plumper, firmer skin to diminish the appearance of wrinkles. Because vitamin A could inhibit the skin’s healing abilities, avoid waxing, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing.

Masks, pore cleansing strips, scrubs, sponges, puffs and washcloths, also exfoliate skin. Masks provide moisture to make wrinkles less pronounced and pores look smaller. Their cooling ingredients increase blood flow to impart a rosy glow. They are available in four basic categories: wax-based, vinyl- or rubber-based, hydrocolloid and earth-based. Wax-based masks are generally administered in salons or spas. These masks temporarily restrict trans-epidermal water loss. Vinyl-based masks are easily applied and removed. They are popular for home use. They are based on film-forming substances such as polyvinyl alcohol or vinyl acetate. They also temporarily restrict trans-epidermal water loss as long as it is in contact with the skin. Hydrocolloid masks are formulated with gums and humectants and are very popular because they are easy to incorporate specialty ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or sulphur, which soak up oil from oily or acne-prone skin. Earth based masks, also known as mud packs, are formulated with absorbent clays such as bentonite. Kaolin clay has an astringent effect on the skin, which is further enhanced by ingredients such as salicylic acid, AHA and menthol. Pore cleansing strips contain an acrylate adhesive that is placed on oily areas. The strip is left on for few minutes and allowed to set. When removed, it pulls off follicular debris that sticks to the strip. Scrubs, sponges brushes, puffs and washcloths all exfoliate unevenly and are impossible to keep clean. Abrasive sponges such as loofahs are very irritating on the facial skin and are also very difficult to keep clean. They also get easily contaminated with bacteria that can cause infection. Facial scrubs buff away excess oil, dirt and dead skin, but they may cause irritation due to uneven sharp surfaces. Waxy creams are easy to use but they can clog the pores and leave a film on the face. Some contain harsh ingredients like alcohol or menthol which dry skin and cause irritation.

Professional Procedures

Of course, you can choose from dozens of professional treatments performed by aestheticians and dermatologists. AHA and BHA peels are administered at a spa or doctor’s office. Low concentrations of acid produce a superficial peel and high doses are used for deeper exfoliation. AHA peels using over 50% concentrations are usually administered by physicians. To obtain significant lasting results, subsequent treatments are necessary. BHA peels at concentrations of 10 to 13% at a pH of 3 are administered with satisfactory results.

Microdermabrasion uses a small amount of aluminium oxide crystals, which are swept across the face with a small hand-held vacuum, gently sloughing off dead skin cells to reveal the fresher, finer-pored skin underneath.

Lasers use a single wavelength, but light source uses multiple ones to treat the under-layer of skin, prompting it to create new collagen in order to heal. In dermaplaning, the dermatologist grazes a sharp scalpel across the face, skimming away dead cells and evening out skin’s surface, while also removing unwanted hair.

In ultrasound, skin exfoliation is accomplished through a process called cavitation, where water or gel molecules are driven by the low frequency sound waves to spin rapidly over the skin. This removes dead skin cells safely without inflammation. These ultrasound machines are available for home use and they do improve the skin appearance.

Skin really needs exfoliation. It improves all skin types. Just remember to use a gentle exfoliator daily, nothing that will remove natural oils. Exfoliation makes skin more active. But, whatever exfoliant you choose, make sure to use it very carefully—there is chance of scarring

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The Skin Society products have been copied!

The same label with the same order of ingredients could be very different!To be copied is very flattering indeed; but there is a problem! To copy a label is very easy; to do. To copy quality is an entirely different task. There are no secrets in product ingredients: by international laws manufacturing companies have to disclose the ingredients used in their product. They have to be mentioned in the label according to the descending order of the quantity used in the product. This is the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) regulation. Before you can include any ingredient in a cosmetic formulation this ingredient as to be approve and registered by the INCI. Furthermore the INCI list MUST be included with every product sold. Cindy Crawford she is lying to you when she talks about her new product with a secret ingredient extracted from melons. As a matter of fact when pitching any product celebrities will tell you anything. It is just how much the marketing company is willing to pay for their lies! And it can be very expensive. (I worked for large cosmetic companies; so I know). One of the problems with the INCI regulation is that: they do not account for the potency of the active material. Let say I buy an extract with 100% of active ingredients for $1000.00 an lbs and use 10% in my formulation which put it in the second place after the water. Let say another manufacturer buy a similar product for $100.00 a lbs. with only 10% of active ingredient, and use 10% in is formulation. Because he can prove that he use 10% of the extract in his formula, he can list it also in second place in the descending order on his label but with 90% less of the active material that of my product. Beware of expensive newspapers and television ads. The manufacturer in order to make a profit has to pass that cost to you! It is scientifically proven that expensive advertising and packaging provides no benefit whatsoever to your skin!

The advantage to the INCI is that: If you get an allergic reaction from a cosmetic product, no matter where you are in the world, the medical staff that will treat you has immediate access to a detailed listing and history of every ingredients used in the product which give you the allergy. In this instance the INCI labeling can be life saving.

Mike Hegi PhD.

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By Dr. M. A. Hegi, PhD.

Senior scientist for The Skin Society

The essence of a successful cosmetic product lies in the cosmetic performance it delivers to the consumer’s skin. The old patent from the Geneva Switzerland based The Skin Society: of Phytoferments http://www.theskinsociety.com have been reformulated to better work with the newest developments in skin care science. To better penetrate the deepest part of the skin we have entrapped those already very active ingredients into liposomes.

The sensual experience depends on various factors like perfume, texture, skin feel of oil components and emulsifiers or the performance of active ingredients. And there are ingredients that can still improve products that already are close to perfect. Our fermentation of botanical range of active ingredients has been designed to improve and refine the skin feel in skin care products. The basic ingredient of these active raw materials is Amylose, which is a natural polymer from starch. Thus the name Phytoferments explains the nature of this class of compounds. Produced on the basis of plants and renewable materials, chemically modified to obtain high performance, Phytoferments is an ideal compromise between natural sourcing and chemical engineering for the improvement of the cosmetic performance.

Skin conditioning anti wrinkle, skin whitening, Anti aging and skin treatments such as cellulite and body sculpting have been the main target in the development of Phytoferments products. The use of different molecular sizes of amylose and the chemical modification to form this class of active materials guarantees a high flexibility in designing valuable skin care active material. Various compounds are created by this variation and we have developed perfect plant extract for different types of skin. A combination of different Phytoferments grades or the addition of other plant material opens new possibilities for specialized skin care for every type of skin condition. The balance between substantivity and removability is one key to optimization of skin care products. We have obtained it by combining different types of Phytoferments. According to their size and chemical modification they target different sites skin problems. Skin conditioning is the application that has been targeted with our Phytoferments. The assessment of several sample products showed us that the skin feel of cosmetics and toiletries is improved by addition of certain Phytoferments types. Smooth and silky skin is the result of formulations with starch based Phytoferments plant extract. This effect can be used in rinse off products such as cleansers for a rich and velvety after feel, as well as in leave on products, where a luxurious skin feel is achieved. Ease of application is something hardly found in starch based active ingredients. Proven efficacy is the ground for a successful application.

Therefore we have extensive test protocols for our raw materials. We incorporate the different types in various state of the art formulations to test the performance with our In-house facilities. UV-resistance and other tests are done to carefully evaluate the performance of our Phytoferments materials in our products. Natural materials are the basis for Phytoferments, renewable sources like potatoes and tapioca provide the starch used for the production. The raw starch is refined and chemically modified to yield cosmetic ingredients with the desired functionalities.

Mike Hegi, PhD.

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